Lee and I have been breeding goats since 2015 and over the years our herd has grown and facilities have improved. This was our first year kidding during the middle of winter (February) and the cold weather proved challenging at times. On the other hand, we are excited to have kids that will be older by the fall breeding and market season.
Getting Started Breeding
My biggest suggestion for breeding goats, is to start small. A small group of goats lets you learn as you go and focus on any individual kidding issues that may arise. Goat kids can be fickle creatures and learning basic care techniques and symptoms to look for and treat is critical for any goat breeder. Our farm started with three breeding does and a buck. Over the years, we have retained kids from easy kidders with great mothering instincts to grow our herd.
Kidding Facilities and Seasons
A standard sized goat gestation is 150 days or approximately five months. We breed in the late summer and early fall for late winter kids. In the past, we would kid out later because the goats lived in a lean-to shelter that was not prepped for winter kidding. Take note of your facilities when choosing a kidding season. While early kids can be weaned earlier and be ready for sales or markets, there is no point in kidding in the winter if your facilities will not accommodate sheltered kidding pens, heat lamps or other winter gear as needed.
During Pregnancy
While our does are pregnant, they have access to free choice hay or pasture at all times. We also feed our breeding and lactating animals a complete feed from our local cooperative grain mill. The complete feed includes all necessary minerals for goats. While we do offer loose minerals as well, we find that the goats think it is the coolest new treat at first and then quickly ignore it if it stays in the pen over days and weeks. One month before kidding, all does receive their CDT vaccine.
Items for Kidding
Our kidding kit that travels out to the barn with us includes:
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Towels
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Iodine in spray bottle, to spray on umbilical cords
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Dental floss and scissors, to cut long umbilical cords
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Nasal aspirator
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Nitrile gloves
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OB gloves
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Lube
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Selenium and Vitamin E paste, as needed for kids with weak leg muscles
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Optimizer Gel or similar product, contains lactic acid producing bacteria, egg proteins, and vitamins for new kids, as needed
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Probiotic paste, as needed
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Hair dryer, to blow dry ears, tails, and legs in freezing weather only
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Fuzzy socks with toes cut off, to keep ears close to body in freezing weather only
Items used as needed:
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Antibiotics
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Kid tube feeding kit
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CMPK gel paste
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Keto gel paste
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Vitamin B Complex
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Frozen colostrum collected from previous year or store colostrum replacer
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Pritchard teats and plastic bottles
Other general barn items include:
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Kidding pens for first time mothers or when weather is cold
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Premier 1 heat lamps and bulbs
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Heat box built to house heat lamp and keep dams out
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Barn cameras
Ideal Kidding Scenario
As kidding time approaches for each doe, you will notice their udders begin to bag up. Some will get larger weeks before kidding, but they typically get tight and taut right before kidding. Some does will not fully fill up their bag until after they kid. The ligaments along the tailbone will also become loose and “mushy” before kidding. The vulva may also swell, get pinker, and produce discharge.
Early signs of a doe going into labor include seclusion, discomfort, light contractions and loss of mucus plug. When the mucus plug gives way, a large string of “goo” will hang from the vulva. Give does space and privacy as labor progresses. Active labor includes heavy contractions, loud cries, and the presentation of a liquid-filled bubble. The kid is contained within this amniotic membrane. Do not manually pop the membrane, but it is okay if the bubble bursts on its own as well. If labor progresses and no kid is sighted, then put on gloves and use lube when reaching in to locate the kid. After each kid is born, a new bubble may appear for the next kid when multiples are present. Most does have twins however, triplets and even quads are not uncommon. First time does may only have a single. Finally, the does should pass the placenta in the hours after birth is finished. We try to pick up the placenta, but do not be surprised if the doe begins to eat it. Eating the placenta is a way of eradicating the scent of their newborn and is a natural instinct to protect kids from predators.
When to Assist
If breeding goats, or any animal, you'll need to be prepared to assist in the birthing process. When in doubt or when you need help, contact your local vet or a trusted mentor! Approximately up to 30 minutes can/should elapse between kids during active labor. If 30 minutes have elapsed, we like to give another ten minutes or so and start preparing to enter the doe. Active laboring with no kid presentation means that the kid is either positioned incorrectly or the doe may not be dilated enough.
As a female with smaller hands, I usually get the honor of wearing the OB gloves, lubing up, and entering the doe. Lee’s large hands are harder to get within the doe, but in an emergency he will enter if needed. The doe will contract and push your hand out. As best you can, try not to fight the contractions. Feel for kid legs or a head. Kids typically present in a diving position with one or two legs first and then the head forward. They can also come backwards feet-first, but rump only will not be able to be passed by the doe. I like to close my eyes and try to envision what body part and direction the part is facing that I can feel. Try to confirm that only ONE kid’s body parts are present and multiple kids are not tangled up and preventing one or the other to progress.
When rearrangement is necessary, push the kid back into the uterus and align legs and head as desired. Typically, once the wrong-positioned kid is born, following kids should birth normally. In one case, the first kid was not presenting normally and was tangled with other kids. The doe actively labored for an extended amount of time. When we finally removed kid number one, who did not survive, two more kids were birthed quickly and successfully within minutes. Both the second kids survived. This doe has kidded easily and unassisted in the past and following this scenario.
Following Kidding
Our number one priority when a kid is born is to make sure they are breathing and aspirate if necessary. The does should naturally start cleaning the kid by licking them off. We assist in this process by toweling off the kid. In winter, drying the kid is a critical step. Frostbite is common to ear tips, tails, and even legs in harsh conditions. When needed, we will blow dry the kid ears when temperatures outside are freezing. If umbilical cords are long, they can be tied off with dental floss and trimmed with clean, sterile scissors below the floss. Umbilical cords should be dipped or sprayed well with iodine to prevent infection to newborn animals.
Our next goal is to see the kids walk and nurse. Most kids are eager to nurse even before their legs are ready to walk! We prefer to see the kids nurse within an hour or two of being born. It is important that the kid received colostrum within the beginning hours of birth. If needed, colostrum can be milked from the doe and fed to the kid via a bottle. First time mothers may be confused about the nursing process. Typically, natural instincts will kick in and a does will stand for the kids to nurse. If she does not stand for the kids, the owner will need to hold the doe until the kids can nurse without help.
We prefer to let our does kid wherever comfortable in the main goat pen and then move them into a kidding pen if cold weather, weak kids, or dam-kid bonding is required. We sometimes move first time does and kids into a pen together to bond and for observation. Enjoy your new kids and give momma some extra grain for her hard work!
